Riding the Thakhek Loop In Laos:
Your Complete Guide
Ride into the heart of Laos on Southeast Asia’s most remote motorbike loop
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The Thakhek Loop in Laos isn’t on everyone’s immediate itinerary, and that’s exactly what makes it so special. This 3-5 day motorbike ride begins and ends in the sleepy riverside town Thakhek, winding over 450km through limestone karsts, remote villages and a staggering number of caves. More than just a scenic route, it takes you into the heart of rural Laos, where you’ll see water buffalo plodding down red dust roads and children waving from bamboo stilt houses. Whether you’re a seasoned rider or a first timer eager to get out exploring, here’s your ultimate guide to riding the Thakhek Loop in Laos, and experiencing this unforgettable route for yourself.
Why Ride the Thakhek Loop?
There are road trips, and then there’s the Thakhek Loop. It’s not polished or well trodden; it’s raw and real, with stretches of smooth tarmac giving way to pothole-ridden gravel and jungle-cloaked backroads. It will leave your clothes covered in dust and your heart a little fuller. Unlike the more touristed North, this part of Laos is a mystery to most travellers. The loop cuts through the limestone backbone of the country, revealing a relatively unexplored region that most travellers miss completely. And then there are the caves – literally dozens of them – carved into the cliffs like hidden temples. Some are peaceful, others are dark and eerie, but all are soaked in myth and local legend.
Planning Your Route
How Long Should You Take?
Most riders complete the loop in three to five days, although we think four days is the sweet spot. It gives you enough time to visit the main highlights, avoid rushing and still soak in the slow rhythm of rural Laos. If you can spare five, even better. You’ll be able to explore with plenty of room to breathe.
Which Direction?
Most people ride the loop clockwise, heading east from Thakhek towards Thalang and then looping north and west back via Kong Lor. This route saves the best for last – the otherworldly Kong Lor Cave – but either direction works. Our highlights list below assumes you’ll be riding the loop clockwise.
Highlights Along the Loop
1. Thakhek
Your starting point is a Mekong riverside town that feels half-asleep, in the best way. It still has an old-world French charm about it, with peeling facades and riverside sunsets. Pick up your bike from one of the many rental shops in town (Wang Wang and Mad Monkey are favourites) and stock up on snacks before you hit the road. If you want to stay in Thakhek before heading off, you’ll find plenty of hostels and guest houses in town. Bike & Bed is a gorgeous, cosy hostel that feels more like staying in someone’s home, with bike parking, an outdoor firepit, terrace and on-site restaurant.
2. Buddha Cave
One of the first stops on the Thakhek Loop is Buddha Cave (Tham Pa Fa), about 6km down a dirt track. It was only discovered in 2004, housing hundreds of bronze Buddha statues dating back centuries. Ancient palm-leaf manuscripts, written in a long-forgotten script, were also found in the cave, with some of the statues believed to be of Khmer origin. No one knows who put the statues here, when they did it or why, but they are now closely guarded by locals, protected behind gates. It’s a fascinating site to behold. You can also get to the beautiful Nong Thao Lake from the parking lot here.
3. Tha Falang
For a refreshing dip and to wash off the dust, detour to Tha Falang, a river bend surrounded by jungle and cliffs. It’s the perfect place to cool off before the long ride east and a beautiful, idyllic spot in nature. Swim in the cool water and laze on the sun-soaked rocks. Local legend has it that this was once a French officers’ swimming hole, hence the name – ‘Falang’ means foreigner.
4. Xieng Liap Cave
Follow the sign 500m from the road, and you’ll reach Xieng Liap, a beautiful cave at the base of a giant 300m high cliff. Wade, splash and swim in the waters here, which are also home to soft-shelled turtles. In the rainy season, you’ll need to hire a kayak, but it’s a really gorgeous spot at the beginning of the cave circuit.
5. Tham Nang Aen
One of the most spectacular (and most visited) caves, Tham Nang Aen is a well-lit and accessible cave where you can really appreciate the incredible formations that have formed over millennia. Some people don’t like that it’s now covered in coloured lights, but it’s a must-visit on the loop and worth stopping by to admire the size of it.
6. Thalang
After a day of weaving through rocky ridges and remote villages, you’ll reach Thalang, a tiny village perched on a reservoir created by the Nam Theun 2 dam, where dead trees rise eerily from the water’s surface. This is where most people bed down for the first night, sharing beers and stories at guesthouses like Sabaidee Guesthouse. Expect a campfire, rice wine and new friends. We loved it here.
7. Buddha Rock Statues
Lying around 20km north of Thalang you’ll find a handful of Buddha statues carved into the cliff face. A mysterious sight to see; you’re here in rural Laos, seemingly a million miles from anywhere, and someone has intricately carved these images into the sandstone.
8. Nakai Plateau & Rural Life
From Thalang, the road climbs into the Nakai Plateau, where golden fields stretch toward forested hills and water buffalo roam. This is central Laos at its most authentic. You’ll see tobacco drying in the sun, ox carts rumbling past and the odd hammock-strung roadside café serving up strong Lao coffee.
9. Cool Springs Lagoon
Another beautiful crystal clear pool that’s just begging to be jumped into, this is a much-needed rest stop. Some lagoons in the area have been closed, both permanently and temporarily, so if Cool Springs is also closed, check out other ones in the nearby area.
6. Kong Lor Cave
This is the crown jewel of the loop: a 7.5km subterranean river cave you traverse by longtail boat in near darkness. Kong Lor feels really mythic – towering caverns, echoing silence and limestone formations looming over you in the gloom. Once inside, you glide along an underground river, the lantern light casting flickering shadows on cathedral high walls. Even if you don’t like caves, this is an experience like no other.
Allow time here to explore the sleepy village of Ban Kong Lor, swim in the emerald pools nearby, and absorb the peace of this remote enclave. Stay overnight at SpringRiver Resort, one of the most atmospheric eco-lodges in Laos and just 3km from Kong Lor cave. Enjoy access to a river spring, incredible sunset views and delicious food in their restaurant, before enjoying a cosy campfire by starlight.
Where to Stay
Accommodation along the loop is simple but welcoming. Guesthouses and homestays are the norm, often run by families in stunning locations.
Sabaidee Guesthouse in Thalang is one of the most popular overnight stops, with good food, hammocks and bonfire hangouts. SpringRiver Resort in Kong Lor is located beside a lazy river, with riverside bungalows and a magical, otherworldly vibe that makes it hard to leave. Villa Thakhek in Thakhek is a gorgeous boutique stay with tropical gardens, spacious rooms and a French colonial feel.
Where to Eat
Food on the loop is rustic, hearty and often homemade. You’ll eat like locals, with laap, grilled meats, sticky rice and steaming bowls of noodle soup. Guesthouses often serve set meals for dinner, and there are roadside stalls selling skewers, fried rice and fresh fruit. Try the local smoked sausage (sai oua) and don’t skip the homemade rice wine offered by villagers – you’ve earned it!
Ride Safely!
The Thakhek Loop isn’t technically difficult, but it isn’t a Sunday cruise either. Road quality varies, especially during the rainy season, and weather can turn quickly. Drive slowly, especially through villages, and watch out for chickens, cows and children playing near the road. Temperatures can get cool in the evenings, so bring a light jacket and trousers. We’d recommend downloading Maps.me or Google Maps offline, as reception can be patchy. ATMs are few and far between once you leave Thakhek. Carry enough cash for fuel and food along the way.
When to ride the Thakhek Loop
The best time to ride the loop is between November and March, during the dry season. Most of the roads are passable and temperatures are mild. April and May bring intense heat, while June to October can mean flooded roads and slippery mud. Some of the highlights aren’t accessible during this time either.
Editor’s Side Note
Riding the Thakhek Loop isn’t about ticking off landmarks or attractions. It may be a cliche but this ride is really about the in-between moments: a sunrise over a misty valley, a spontaneous game of football with local kids, the ache in your legs after hours on the bike, soothed by a cold Beerlao and a sunset you’ll remember for years.
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