How to Visit Wat Phou: Laos’ Temple
That Predates Angkor Wat
Step back in time at Wat Phou: Laos' hidden gem and UNESCO World Heritage site.
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In the quiet river plains of southern Laos sits one of Southeast Asia’s most impressive ancient sites. Far from the crowds of Angkor Wat but deeply tied to its history, Wat Phou is a rambling temple complex that easily rivals those of Cambodia. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this huge temple complex is still blissfully free from mass tourism, giving you a sense of true exploration and wonder as you explore the crumbling ruins. For those looking to get off the beaten path and see what Angkor Wat might have been like 20 years ago, here’s your essential guide on how to visit Wat Phou in Laos, with everything you need to know to make the most of your visit here.
Table of Contents
What is Wat Phou?
Wat Phou, meaning “mountain temple”, is one of the oldest and most significant Khmer temples in existence, dating back to the 5th century. It flourished during the height of the Khmer Empire, between the 11th and 13th centuries, long before Angkor Wat rose in importance. The site was the religious and administrative centre of the ancient city of Shrestapura, believed to have been the Khmer capital before Angkor.
But it’s more than the dates that impress! Sitting at the base of Mount Phou Kao, whose natural form resembles a lingam (a sacred Shiva symbol), the temple is aligned with the mountain and the Mekong River, showing the spiritual and cosmological precision with which these temples were built.
How to Get to Wat Phou
The best place to stay when visiting Wat Phou is Champasak, a riverside town about 30km south of Pakse, the regional capital. To get to Champasak from Pakse, you can hire a tuk tuk, which takes around 45 minutes or, one of our favourite options, is to take a long tail boat down the Mekong – a wonderful experience in and of itself!
Once in Champasak, Wat Phou is 10km away and easily reached by tuk tuk or motorbike. Most guesthouses and hostels in the town offer transport and can arrange guided tours.
What to Expect at Wat Phou
Wat Phou unfolds over a series of terraces, each level gradually bringing you closer to the sacred spring at the top. The entire site is designed to reflect a cosmic mandala – an earthly mirror of the divine order. You can easily explore the complex on foot, sometimes having entire areas to yourself.
The Lower Terrace
You’ll start at the baray, an ancient reservoir that was once used for both ceremonial and agricultural purposes. Just beyond, two crumbling pavilions – the northern and southern palaces – flank a long processional causeway. Though partially collapsed, you can still see the beautiful detail in the lintels and sandstone walls. It’s likely pilgrims were housed here before beginning the ascent to the top. The causeway is lined with boundary stones shaped like lotus buds, leading your eye towards the sacred mountain above.
The Middle Terrace
A steep staircase, partially shaded by ancient frangipani trees, brings you to the second level. This space has shrines and resting spots as the views begin to open out; you’ll see the expansive floodplains and scattered ruins of ancient settlements beneath you. On either side of the stairway you’ll see remnants of guardian statues and naga serpents, who protected and guided the spiritual journey upwards.
The Upper Terrace
At the summit you’ll find the main sanctuary, set into the cliff face where a natural spring flows, a site of worship predating the temple itself. Originally dedicated to Shiva, the sanctuary retains the shape and layout of a Hindu shrine, but now incorporates Buddhist symbology too, reflecting the religious landscape of Laos.
Inside the sanctuary, you’ll find statues draped in saffron fabric, incense offerings and niches once housing Hindu deities. The sacred spring still flows through the rock wall, and pilgrims often anoint themselves with the water. Behind the sanctuary, follow a short trail to see carvings etched directly into the stone cliff. The crocodile-shaped stone is said to have been used in ancient rituals, and you’ll see plenty of Buddha and Hindu figures.
Up here, the views are truly breathtaking. Wide-open plains, meandering waterways and the faint outline of distant mountains under an endless sky. It’s easy to see why this place was chosen as a spiritual axis of the kingdom.
Best Time to Visit Wat Phou
The best time to visit Wat Phou is during the cool dry season, from November to February, when temperatures are comfortable and the landscape is lush. If you can, try and visit during the Wat Phou Festival, held on the full moon in February. This three day event celebrates the temple with religious ceremonies, traditional dance, music and a carnival atmosphere with locals and monks all taking part.
Practical Information
Opening Hours: Daily from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM. It can easily be explored in an hour we’d recommend at least 2-3 hours to absorb the atmosphere and take it all in.
Entrance Fee: 50,000 kip (approx £1.70 / $2.50 USD) Included in the ticket price is also entrance to a small museum, housing sandstone sculptures and translations of some of the inscriptions. Highly recommend visiting here first to give you more context when wandering the ruins.
Editor’s Side Note
Locals still make offerings here, and monks occasionally visit to pray at the spring. Unlike many ancient sites, Wat Phou is not just a relic. It is still lived in, still sacred and still part of Laos’ spiritual heart. The ruins are impressive, but so is the stillness in which the temple sits. The stones have stood for over a millennium, beneath trees that are older than many countries. Away from the tourist buses and mass commercialisation, that feeling of magic and meaning is so hard to find nowadays in a modern world so connected via social media and Instagram hot-spots. Get here and revel in it while you can.
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