How To Visit the 4000 Islands in Laos:
The Ultimate Travel Guide
Into the Mekong - your definitive guide to exploring the 4000 Islands of Laos
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Tucked away in the far south of Laos near the Cambodian border, this river archipelago is made up of hundreds of islands and islets, some large enough to host entire villages, others disappearing underwater during the rainy season. Here, visitors trade in tuk-tuks for bicycles, resorts for riverside bungalows and itineraries for instinct. Welcome to Si Phan Don, Laos’ mystical Four Thousand Islands, where time slows to the pace of the Mekong river. If you want to experience the magic for yourself and know how to visit the 4000 Islands in Laos, this guide is all you need.
Table of Contents
Don Det, Laos
Don Det Island
Don Det draws a crowd of backpackers and budget travellers, all in search of the island’s laid back vibe and unspoiled beauty. Don Det feels like a world away from the modern world. This is a place where hammocks sway in the breeze and the days drift by, filled with leisurely bike rides through rice paddies, kayaking along the river in search of Irrawaddy dolphins and fiery sunsets that light up the sky. Stay in rustic bungalows and simple guesthouses, scattered along the shores of the Mekong. Despite being one of the most popular islands to visit, it’s a place where time doesn’t just slow down, it almost disappears. It’s not unusual to lose track here, drifting between cafes serving banana pancakes and bamboo huts with hammock laced porches.
Water buffalo on Don Khone, Laos
Don Khone Island
Don Det is quiet, but Don Khone is even quieter. While Don Det is known for its relaxed, bohemian vibe, Don Khone is where those looking for a deeper connection to nature will feel most at home. Here you have old-world charm with less commercialisation. Cycle past traditional wooden homes and rice paddies, and find the breathtaking Phapheng Falls, a rushing cascade of water that tumbles over rocks for 1.5km. The island is connected to Don Det by a French-built bridge. Come here for a slower pace, colonial guesthouses and quiet lanes shaded by coconut palms, always with spectacular views of the Mekong.
Don Khong Island
The largest of the 4000 islands, Don Khong somehow feels quieter than its counterparts. It’s where you come to witness real local life on these islands, where mornings begin with monks collecting alms and stays are in family-run guesthouses in sleepy villages. The rural Lao farming and fishing communities here are windows into a fast disappearing way of life, and there’s a sense you’ve stumbled onto something special when you arrive here. If you’re after more of an adventure into the soul of Laos, a trip here is mandatory. And don’t worry about booking, just turn up and see where the Mekong takes you.
What to Do on the 4000 Islands
The Four Thousand Islands aren’t brimming with traditional attractions, and that’s precisely their charm. Life moves at the pace of a drifting canoe; days are shaped by sunrise swims, hammock reads and sunset beers. But, for those craving a little more, here are some of the best things to do on the islands:
Cycle the Islands
Rent a bike and explore the flat trails of Don Det and Don Khone. Expect to pass traditional stilt houses, sun-dappled rice paddies and the occasional cow blocking your path.
Visit the Phapheng Falls
On Don Khone’s southern tip, these ferocious rapids thunder through a rocky gorge for over 1.5km. Often referred to as the ‘Niagara of Laos’, they’re the largest waterfall in Southeast Asia and a bucket list sight – this is nature at her most raw and powerful.
Kayak with Dolphins
Paddle along the Mekong in search of the elusive Irrawaddy dolphins. These freshwater mammals are a rare sight, but with a bit of luck and a quiet paddle, you might catch them surfacing in pairs.
Explore the Old French Railway
A vestige of colonial ambition, the now-defunct railway once connected Don Det and Don Khon to bypass the falls. Today, its remnants – including an old train and bridges – make for some fun exploring on the islands (and a welcome break from the hammock).
Where to Eat
It’s hard to go wrong with food on these islands when everything is run by local families, serving up fresh, home-cooked meals using ingredients caught or grown just metres away from your table. Expect plates of lao noodle soup, laap and endless variations of sticky rice paired with river fish grilled in banana leaves.
Cafes in Don Det serve up coconut shakes, mango pancakes and a surprisingly good espresso for how remote you are. For sunset, grab a Beer Lao and take a seat by the water – the sky puts on a show almost every evening.
Where to Stay on the 4000 Islands
Most accommodation is found on Don Det and Don Khone, where you’ll find comfortable stays and plenty of variety. The sunset side of Don Det is a perennial favourite for backpackers, with a line of casual guesthouses and reggae bars to pick from. Don Khone is more suited to couples and families who want a few more amenities. Here’s our pick of some of our favourites on the two islands:
Don Det Hotel, Laos
Don Det Island
Don Det Hotel
This sprawling teakwood mansion is the most upscale place to stay on the island, with enviable sunset views and spacious rooms that gaze out directly over the Mekong river.
DODAND Guesthouse, Laos
DODAND Riverside Guest House
Housed in a stilted bungalow over the water, the rooms here are clean, modern and fresh with views over the river and the small islands that scatter its surface. Grab a couple of beers from the shop and relax in your own hammock while you watch the sunset.
Baba Guesthouse, Laos
BABA Guest House
On the quieter side of the island, this is the place to stay to get away from it all. Rooms are gorgeous, with white washed walls and crisp linens, all of them with balconies overlooking the river and gardens. At this end of the island, you’re only a short bike ride away to the neighbouring island of Don Khone.
Sala Don Khone, Laos
Don Khone Island
Sala Don Khone
One of our favourite spots in the entire 4000 islands, this is a collection of traditional Laotian buildings, beautifully decorated with painted tiles, hanging greenery and local artwork, all of course, on the banks of the Mekong.
Dokchampa Guest House
A beautifully appointed, family-run guest house within walking distance to restaurants and bars. Rooms are large with floor-to-ceiling windows and balconies over the Mekong, with front-row seats to those incredible island sunsets.
When to Go to the 4000 Islands
The best time to visit is from November to March, when the dry season gifts the islands with sunshine, cooler temperatures and low humidity. April and May can be hot and dusty, while the monsoon season, June to October, brings so much rain that some small islands become submerged.
Editor’s Note
There is something rare and valuable about a place that offers you nothing to do. The Four Thousand Islands don’t shout for your attention, and that’s the magic. Watch fishermen casting their nets in the golden light, or cycle past school kids who greet you with unfiltered joy. In a word obsessed with productivity and constant motion, the 4000 Islands is, for now, a radical alternative. My final tip? Don’t try to see it all. Pick an island, settle in, and let the Mekong show you the way.
Things to Do
things to do
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